Definitely Not.  All our tanks are moulded in one piece so there are no joins that can become weak over time.  We also never cut the lids off our tanks to transport them as this would weaken the structure significantly meaning your tank wouldn’t last the distance.

Our Poly tanks rely on the chemical strength of the molecular bonds between Linear Low Density Polyethylene (LLDPE) molecules that have a narrower molecular weight distribution than conventional LDPE and in combination with the linear structure, significantly different rheological properties.  What this means is that the strength of the tank is achieved at a molecular level, and the best way to keep this is to keep the surfaces as consistent as possible.

With a steel (or colorbond) tank, the sheet metal is relatively flexible, and in order to make the tank rigid bends (or corrugations) are needed at regular intervals.

In a poly tank, increasing the number of corrugations, increases the risks of thin spots when the tank is being moulded, which could cause the tank to wear out prematurely.

Yes!

When you order your tank we will confirm the orientation and location of fittings with you.

If you need any extra fittings the let us know and we’ll give you access to our very competitive pricing on these.

Tank Installation

To ensure optimum performance and durability of your tank, the following steps must be followed:

Preparation:

Tank on Ground
Prepare a sand pad free of sticks and stones that can puncture the bottom of the tank.
Make the sand pad 300mm wider in diameter then the actual tank diameter.
A concrete pad can also be made, ensure the surface of concrete has been smoothed off to ensure there is no exposed aggregate that can puncture the tank.
Make the concrete pad 100mm wider diameter then the actual tank diameter.
 
Tank on Stand
Prepare a stand with hardwood planks with gaps no greater than 25mm.
Hardwood planks will need to be structurally supported to prevent sagging when the tank is at maximum level.
The Poly Place strongly advises getting an expert to advise on the structure of stand.
The tank will need to be put in place with a crane or alternative lifting device which will be at purchasers cost.
Please note that for every 1000 litres of water it weighs 1 tonne.
Therefore a 12000 litre tank will weigh over 12 tonnes and the structure needs to be constructed to support this weight.
 
Connecting your Tank
Whether on a pad or a stand the following steps should be followed,

• Water should be directed into the water inlet through the leaf basket.
• Fixed inlets should be supported, not off the tank. We strongly suggest having a flexible hose at the end of your inlet going into the tank.

Water Outlet
Your water outlet connection should be made from a flexible hose at least for the 1st meter, this will avoid stress been placed on the side wall of tank and the fitting. Please remember the tank fitting is not designed to be a pipe support.

Water Overflow
Your tank comes with a standard 90mm PVC fitting and Insect net. Ensure that the water is piped away from the tank to ensure that the overflow water doesn’t undermine the tank foundation.
 

Yes.  All of our water tanks have been engineered with a monocoque construction in mind.  This means that there is no need for a central pole to support the lid.

Why is this important?

Some older style tanks require a central pole to support the lid.  As the tank fills and empties slight expansion in the walls can cause the pole (which is rigid) to gradually wear through the floor of the tank which it rests on.  The result of this would the loss of your precious water through a hole in the base of the tank.

With a single piece design, you can be assured that this will never occur.